The Old Bishop's Palace
Read the story of one of the oldest and most important buildings in Sir Gâr - a place that helped keep alive Cymraeg for everyone.
A home with deep roots
The story of the Old Bishop's Palace in Abergwili begins around 1290, when Bishop Thomas Bek established a college for priests on this site.
We do not know exactly what the original building was like, but we do know that it was supported by income from 21 local parishes. Life here was relatively quiet for about 200 years.
Everything changed during the reign of Henry VIII. The college came to an end when the King severed all ties with the Catholic Church at the time of the Protestant Reformation. In 1541, the college was moved to Brecon, leaving the buildings in Abergwili empty.
But not for long.
From college to the bishop's home
The following year, in 1542, the Bishop of St Davids requested permission to move his official residence here. Abergwili was closer to the centre of power in west Wales at the time (Carmarthen), and it was easier to travel to all parts of the vast diocese from there.
Permission was granted, and the building became the home of the Bishop of St Davids for over 400 years, although the original palace in St Davids was retained until the 17th century.
It was no ordinary house. It was a place of worship and learning, and it exerted a significant influence on the cultural life of south Wales for a long period.
A courtyard in the centre
The earliest image we have of the Palace dates from 1750. A detailed survey from 1713 helps us understand the nature of the building at that time.
In the centre was a large, open courtyard. This design echoed the cloisters found in monasteries and abbeys, reflecting the site's early days as a religious college. At that time, there was no east wing, so the courtyard faced what is now the centre of the Bishop's Park.
However, in 1801, during the time of Bishop Lord George Murray, work finally began on remodelling the Palace. Consequently, the main entrance was moved and the building's orientation was changed. Following Bishop Murray's death in 1803, the work stalled for another 20 years, but it appears that Bishop Jenkins subsequently completed the renovation. The main entrance remained in the same location, but an east wing was built and a roof was added over the courtyard.
Fire, loss and revival
The most dramatic change occurred in 1903, when three sides of the palace were gutted by fire. Only the west wing—where the main entrance is located today—survived. Fortunately, no one was hurt.
It is believed that the fire started in the bishop's bedroom, though the cause was never confirmed. A decision was made to rebuild using the original foundations, at a cost of up to £14,000—an enormous sum at the time. The work was led by the architect W. D. Caröe and completed in 1907.
Caröe installed a new glass roof over the central hall but removed a cupola that had been in place since the 18th century. He also redecorated the interior in the ‘Arts and Crafts’ style; this is particularly evident in the Chapel, which features many beautiful examples of carved woodwork.
A family member later wrote that the new Palace felt like a genuine improvement. For the first time, the palace had bathrooms and central heating.
The chapel – an enduring presence
One of the most important places in the Palace is the chapel.
A chapel certainly existed here by 1620, and records from 1713 show that it was in the same location then as it is today. This implies that the chapel has likely stood on this site since bishops first began living here.
Images from before the fire show that the chapel looked quite different at one time; it was smaller, and the seating faced a different direction.
As the home of the Bishop of St Davids, this was an important religious centre. It was also a place of great cultural significance.
It is said that the first Welsh translation of the New Testament was completed here around 1567 by William Salesbury, with the support of Bishop Richard Davies. This work played a major role in safeguarding the future of the Welsh language.
A place for people
During the Second World War, the Palace became a haven. Families from Swansea and London were given shelter here.
Bishops lived in the Palace until the 1970s. By then, such a large residence was no longer needed, so an agreement was reached with the County Council regarding the purchase of the building and some of the surrounding land. A new Palace was built near the stables, and the current Bishop still lives there.
From palace to museum
The County Council purchased the Old Palace in 1974 as a new home for the county museum. The museum's previous premises on Quay Street, Carmarthen, had become too small. After four years, the Old Bishop's Palace opened its doors once again in 1978 – this time as Carmarthenshire County Museum.
The Palace has continued to develop since then. Galleries and offices have been created, and visitor facilities, such as a lift, have been installed. Conservation work—such as major roof repairs in 2020–22 and work on the floors in 2026—helps to safeguard the building for future generations.
Today, the Old Bishop's Palace is a place to:
- discover the stories of Carmarthenshire
- enjoy a variety of displays and exhibitions
- learn how the past shapes who we are today
This historic building has served as a college, a home, a refuge, and a museum.
And its story continues.